Yeah, yeah, wine schmine. Lots of people know that you can drive down and enjoy drinkable wine these days in the Valle de Guadalupe, which is just over the border in Baja California.
(It’s three hours away. What are you waiting for? Get going.)
But setting aside the draw of 180 wineries–many of which now use grapevine cuttings from the best that Europe has to offer. And the fun and adventure of driving dirt roads to find them. And the friendly people everywhere who are happy to help you in the small towns that make up the wine country.
We are here to talk about the food. That’s right. You’re allowed to pour some vino while you’re eating. But this is all about eating at the place that coined a new expression: Baja Med. And that’s why I go down there. After all, there are wineries all over California. But you’re not going to get an amazing gourmet meal for half price there. I’m even thinking about bringing my teetotaller friends down there, just to eat. They will thank me.
The Hacienda (Also known as Restaurante y Vivero La Hacienda)There are a few different ways to enter the Ruta de Vino, which is the officially designated name for the Valle de Guadalupe wine country. Perhaps the most popular is to drive the beautiful coastal road south, as if you’re going to Ensenada, but then cut off onto Highway 3, 14 miles northeast of Ensenada. When I take this route, I always try to stop for breakfast or lunch at La Hacienda, which can be found on the turnoff to San Antonio de las Minas (sometimes called Villa Juarez). Yes, it’s down a rutted dirt road, but my old Toyota Corolla can make it, and your car can, too.
This business started out 40 years ago as a plant nursery, on a beautiful pastoral setting covered with ancient oak trees. People began asking if they could picnic there. Sensing a good thing, the owner began selling roast chicken and burgers. Nowadays, there are elegant tables under the beautiful oak trees, and a refined menu that attracts day trippers from all over. It’s impossible to avoid relaxing while there, and the excellent food and service prepares you for the day to come. Check out their weekend brunch buffet. While you’re there, see if you can sample some of the flavored apertifs made from local fruits by the owner’s son.
Price point: Low to medium
Location: Restaurante y Vivero la Hacienda
Santos Degollado 444
22766 Villa de Juárez, Baja California
Finca AltozanoIf you’re the kind of person whose life depends on trying to get a reservation for the French Laundry in Napa, you might as well just stop reading here. Because there are no snooty restaurants in the Valle. None. Nada. But that doesn’t mean there isn’t incredible gourmet food. It just means that it’s cheaper, less pretentious and easier to get into than it is at home. Expect to pay half of what a fine dining experience would cost at home. Though you have to drive a dirt road to find it.
One case in point is Finca Altozano. It was founded by celebrity chef Javier Plascencia, who at last count runs seven restaurants. It has refined and elegant cuisine. Think Kumamoto oysters mignonette, Serrano ham from Extremadura, artisanal cavatelli with beef cheek and fennel and oak-grilled quail. People come from everywhere to eat there.
But, here’s the thing: The entire restaurant is outdoors under a roof with rustic tables and chairs. The food is all cooked over a wood-fired oven. On one memorable visit, the resident pet pig, Olivia, slept on my foot the entire meal. (She’s too big now and been relegated to the farmyard, sadly).
I’ve never met Javier Plascencia, but he sat near me once wearing a plaid flannel shirt and John Deere tractor cap. That attitude encapsulates the Valle de Guadalupe dining experience, which is all about enjoyment, and not about attitude.
Price point: Medium
Address: Carretera Tecate-Ensenada (Hwy 3) Ejido Francisco Zarco, Valle de Guadalupe 22750.
Deckman’s at El MogorRun by Michelin star chef Drew Deckman, this is another restaurant that serves its customers outdoors on a series of stunning terraces overlooking the vineyards.
Food and service are refined, with a casual feel. Food is cooked over a huge outdoor grill, making this a place for people who love meat and seafood.
The offerings are local farm-to-table–they grow their own fruits and vegetables– and Deckman is involved in the Slow Food movement. The menu changes constantly but look for oysters, clams, grilled meats, crab. The day we were there, they had fresh anchovies and quail on the grill. They didn’t have a vegetarian menu, and when I asked for veggie food, they came up with some but it wasn’t terrific. They had an interesting tasting menu. The service was spotty, but really this is a place that you have to try.
The restaurant is located at the Mogor-Badan winery, where tastings are also available.
Reservations are essential. Walkups are not accepted. In the spirit of Baja, they suggest casual clothes and sensible shoes. A sweater is not a bad idea or even a blanket.
Price point: Expensive
Getting there: Ensenada-Tecate Highway Km. 85.5, San Antonio de Las Minas, Valle de Guadalupe, B.C., Mexico
Fauna Restaurante at BrumaI must confess I haven’t eaten here yet, but it’s on my list for our next visit, because friends rave about it. You won’t be surprised to learn it’s in a beautiful vineyard setting with a mountain backdrop. And the restaurant is located at the Bruma winery, which is renowned for its beautiful art and architecture.
Bruma is one of the first wineries you come to if you drive down into the valley from Tecate. By crossing the U.S. border at Tecate, you’ll have about an hour of beautiful boulder-strewn scenery before you enter the official Ruta del Vino.
This means that–if you’re coming from the other end of the highway–Bruma and Fauna will be the last place you visit. This can take longer than you think, due to the irresistible urge to linger everywhere, so if you want to visit Fauna, make yourself a plan. Reservations are also strongly recommended, if not essential. There’s also a pricey hotel here, in case you don’t want to drive anywhere afterward.
At this writing, the Fauna chef is David Castro Hussong (yes, that Hussong) who has developed a reputation for creative and exquisite cuisine, along with Maribel Aldaco Silva.
“Mexican cuisine at hand, we cook what we find,” Hussong is quoted on the Fauna website, but we’re not talking chicken wings here.
There’s an eccentric mix of tasting menu and a la carte here, so just plan to relax and go with the flow. There is an actual indoor portion, which is good in case it’s chilly.
Price point: Expensive
Location: 22760 Valle de Guadalupe / Ensenada, Baja California
Planning Ahead
Valle de Guadalupe, which sits 14 miles northeast of Ensenada along Baja Hwy 3, is a three-to-four-hour drive from Southern California. It is most often entered from a turnoff on Baja Highway 1 or by entering Mexico through Tecate, then heading south.
The weather is usually pleasant, with cool-to-chilly winters and hot summers. Bring a sweater even in summer for evenings spent outdoors.
Peak time: The Ruta de Vino has become the Napa Valley of Mexico, with many well-heeled Mexican tourists visiting from all over. Crowds can get heavy during holidays and the Vendimias wine, food and harvest festivals in August. It’s never a bad idea to make reservations. Day trips from Ensenada or Rosarito Beach are popular.
